Sunday, February 3, 2013

Kamajoeh, Mozambique Beauty En Voile, circa 1905

As well as being a lovely image in and of itself, this is a very interesting postcard for a number of reasons. The subject of the image, almost certainly an actress or performer, is a woman of color whose name (probably Swahili or possibly Malagasy), suggests she may have come from the Portuguese colony of Mozambique in Africa, or the French colony of Madagascar off Africa's coast. Though the postcard bears a German stamp and was probably produced in Germany, the image itself is quite probably French, as her costume, with layers of filmy material wrapped low about her shoulders, and her hair, done up in the classic chignon so popular in that period, are distinctly French European in style. 

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE Kamajoeh, Mozambique Beauty En Voile, circa 1905


Why do we find this so fascinating? Primarily because—although dance, music, and costume in the France of the late 19th and early 20th centuries was clearly influenced by the cultures of European colonial holdings—it is uncommon to find on postcards images of performers of color who actually come from these colonies.

Theatrical entertainment in France at that time was full of the romantic idealization of foreign cultures. Margaretha McLeod, a young Dutch woman who apparently learned Indonesian dance while locked in a terribly unhappy marriage in the Dutch East Indies, left her husband, made her way to Paris and, in the proud tradition of P.T. Barnum, changed her name to Mata Hari, billed herself as a Javanese princess, became hugely successful with her sensual dance routines, and the rest is history. There were so many others, many images of whom, from time to time, grace the cards we sell in our shop, but almost always they are white Europeans.

Still, though such images as this one are uncommon, we feel it's important to point out that the egalitarian nature of French society was such that performers of all cultural, religious, and ethnic origins made their way to Paris, where many found success and fame. After all, it was in the Paris of the 1920s that Josephine Baker, the famous African American dancer and stage performer, found a broad acceptance and venue for her talent that had not been available to her in the United States of that time.

Finally, we want to acknowledge that we are mere dabblers in history, and certainly not historians. Our focus is limited and narrow, and our short posts far from even remotely complete. So we offer our observations in the spirit of enthusiastic collectors, and hope they are welcomed by fellow enthusiasts and that our over simplifications of complex historical issues and events are forgiven by those more knowledgeable than ourselves.

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Almost Wordless Wednesday: Mlle. Marinette, du Casino de Paris

Mlle Marinette, du Casino de Paris


Marvellous image by Oricelly of Paris, of Mlle. Marinette, while she was employed at the Casino de Paris in the early 1900s. Oricelly was responsible for a number of stunning images published in sepia tones, of which this is certainly one.

Saturday, January 5, 2013

Featured Items: 1920s Lingerie Models Reclining

Our current featured items are four lingerie models from the 1920s, reclining leisurely on the furniture.

This cute model has a sweet smile for the camera as she reclines on a fun backless couch. The classic flapper pillow leaning against the couch near the model's head is a wonderful touch.

Risque PC Paris Lingerie Model with Flapper Pillow and Pointy Shoes
The casual pose as the models leans against a coffee table near an arrangement of flowers, with a single flower dangling from her hand, helps to make this card something special.

French Risque Leo 50, 1910s/20s Lingerie Card
This young lady doesn't really look like she's posing. No, we think she was taking a break and reading a magazine when the photographer called her name and took the shot.

Very Cute Risque French Lingerie Model PC Paris circa 1920
This is such a fun shot. The model's pose on the couch and her coquettish smile, with the pillows strewn everywhere, make it looks as  if she's simply alighted here for a moment before she'll be hopping back up to throw on her flapper dress and a beaded headdress, ready to head out for a night of frolicsome fun, dancing the Charleston.

Risque Rppc Extra Cute French Lingerie Model 1920s

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Featured Items: Beautiful Art Nouveau Images by Photographer Arjalew

It's pretty amazing when our featured items sell so fast that we can't even get our blog post up, but that's what happened to two out of this beautiful collection of images. Fear not, you will still have the opportunity to view all four of these wonderful Art Nouveau images by the Belle Époque photographer, Arjalew (pronounced ari-ya-lev). Monsieur Arjalew was a Parisian photographer who operated a studio out of 17 Boulevard Poissoniere in Paris. His surname suggests a Polish heritage to us, but we are not experts and have been unable to find confirmation; one source, a French dealer in postcards, has listed Arjalew's work as Judaica, but we cannot confirm this, either. What we do know is that Arjalew created some really stunning Art Nouveau images, often using illustrated backgrounds with that quintessential Art Nouveau floral imagery  So, we now present to you, for your viewing pleasure, four of his lovely images, previously published as postcards.

The first two of these images are companion pieces, depicting as they do the same lovely young woman with her impish smile. She wears flowing draperies and flowers to either side of her face. In one she stands and in the other she sits, but in both the background is a wonderful design of leaves and flowers, very much like the designs found in the artwork of Alphonse Mucha. These images remind us, also, of the artwork of John R. Neill, whose portraits of Ozma and the other young ladies who inhabited Oz so often depicted them in flowing gowns and with flowers framing their faces.

AVAILABLE FOR SALE Beautiful Art Nouveau Portrait of Young Woman by Arjalew, circa 1905
AVAILABLE FOR SALE Beautiful Art Nouveau Portrait by Arjalew, circa 1905

The following image, with its annotation "Bonne Fête," may have been intended as a card to be given on a birthday, or in celebration of the feast day of one's patron saint. Once more, we see that an enchanting Art Nouveau background has been used to frame the model whose attention seems to be coquettishly focused on the flowers she holds in her hands, rather than on the photographer and the camera he points at her.

SOLD Lovely Art Nouveau Image by Arjalew, circa 1905

Our final image is of a young woman who is identified by the annotation in the top right corner as Astarte, the Greek name for a goddess whose roles encompassed fertility and sexuality and who was once "known as the deified evening star." Astarte's robes follow the Classical pattern so favored by Arjalew and other photographers of La Belle Époque, but are daringly sheer, in keeping with her roles involving sex and procreation. Unlike the other cards in this set, the background is plain, designed to disappear, so that only the model and the heavy stone throne upon which she reclines are visible. Yet this image, in keeping with the others, makes liberal use of flowers as a design element crucial to the depiction of youth and beauty, sexuality, and fertility.

SOLD Stunning Art Nouveau Astarte by Arjalew, circa 1905



Saturday, December 15, 2012

Announcing the Songs of Salome Collection

Today, Red Poulaine is unveiling the Songs of Salome Collection. This stunning ensemble brings together a choice assortment of luscious vintage postcards featuring Art Nouveau headdresses, jewelry, and costumes, with a special emphasis on the depiction of dangerous female seductresses and dancers, of whom Salome is a prime example.

The 1904 Richard Strauss opera Salome, itself based on a German translation of the 1891 Oscar Wilde play, Salomé (written in French to side-step British censorship), has been identified, along with French colonial interests in Africa and Asia, as one possible influence in the development of the oriental dance costume of La Belle Époque.

We here at Red Poulaine have worked very hard to find the most stunning vintage images we can, often spending many hours on any given day in this search. The temptation to hoard the most beautiful images for ourselves was actually the start of this collection, but we find our need to share these images overwhelms that impulse. Lucky you! Because this means that we are opening up a collection that, although small, may just be the most concentrated grouping of Art Nouveau femme fatales inspired by the opera Salome currently available.

And now, for the first time all together on one stage, and with no further ado, we bring you: the Songs of Salome.

Hedwig Reicher as Salome, circa 1905

Mary-Hett with Tiger Skin, Belle Epoque Artiste in Art Nouveau Costume, circa 1900

Dina Van-Brandt, Belle Epoque Artise in Art Nouveau Costume, circa 1905

Les Bijoux, Decorative Art Nouveau Image from Popular French Series, circa 1905

Louise Mante in Art Nouveau Costume, circa 1900

French Dancer Margot Dervilliers in Costume Orientale, circa 1905

Margot Dervilliers in Sheer Art Nouveau Dance Costume

French Artiste Laparcerie in Classic Art Nouveau Headress circa 1900

Art Nouveau Flowered Headdress circa 1900

French Artiste D'Alencon in Fantastic Art Nouveau Headress circa 1900

Mata Hari's Arch Rival Suzy Deguez circa 1905 by Paul Boyer

Frau Von Hochenburger, Jugendstil Epoche German Artiste, circa 1900

French Artiste Girard in Classical Art Nouveau Costume with Cameo Headdress circa 1905
Gerda Walde, Viennese Opera Singer in flowered Jugenstil Epoche Headdress, circa 1905

Parisian Dancer Hagino in Costume Orientale, circa 1905
Gorgeous Art Nouveau Card Featuring Heglon and Madia in Headdresses circa 1905

Mme. Heglon, Opera Star in Gorgeous Art Nouveau Headdress, circa 1900

Opera Diva L. Preusser in Costume for Konig Niccolo, circa 1905

La Floramye and Partenaire, circa 1905

Walery Image of Charming French Dancer in Costume Orientale, circa 1905

Mlle Lippson at the Cigale, in Hand-Tinted Art Nouveau Costume, circa 1905

Lise Fleuron, French Stage Performer, circa 1900

Lise Fleuron, French Stage Performer in Costume, circa 1900

Lotte Sarrow, Actress of the Jugendstil Epoche, as Salome, circa 1905

Louise Blot at the Olympia Theater in Berlin, circa 1905

Lucy Gerard, French Stage Actress in Art Nouveau Costume, circa 1905

Mlle. Margyll, Belle Epoque Artiste in Fabulous Art Nouveau Headdress, circa 1905

Mila Davire in Art Nouveau Headdress with Poppies, circa 1905

Miri Voclesca Danseuse Bohemienne circa 1905 by Louis Martin

Myrta Forenza in Classical Art Nouveau Costume, circa 1905

Stacia Napierkowska Russian Star of French Silent Film circa 1910s/20s

Nina Barkis in Wonderful Art Nouveau Costume Orientale, circa 1905

Very Cute Young Woman in Art Nouveau Dance Costume, circa 1905

Lovely Artiste with Sweet Smile in Art Nouveau Dance Costume.

La Belle Otero in Danse Orientale Costume circa 1905

Image of Salome circa 1910

Head Shot of Opera Diva Louise Mante in Gorgeous Art Nouveau Jewelry, circa 1900

Regina Badet in Marvelous Belle Epoque Dance Costume, circa 1905

Hedwig Reicher as Salome in Hand-Colored Image circa 1905

Sjemile Fatme, Odalisque to the Sultan, circa 1910

Cecile Sorel in Art Nouveau Costume, circa 1905

Mlle. Spinelli in Art Nouveau Dance Costume circa 1905

Ruth St. Radhjah, Belle Epoque Dancer and Adventuress in Meditative Pose

Mlle. Suquez in Classical Art Nouveau Costume with Lyre

Hand-Tinted Image of Charming Young Artiste in Art Nouveau Headdress circa 1905

Cute Belle Epoque Artiste in the Ubiquitous Peacock Crown, circa 1900
All postcards in this post are available for sale in the Red Poulaine shop on Etsy.